Another great day at the beach!
There’s a nice south swell shutting down right now. I didn’t surf over the weekend. I did go out to Sloat and watch it breaking clean at 6-8′ and just felt sick that I didn’t bring a board. But Monday after a big weekend is always mellow. All the kooks have had their fill and have to go to work. The rest of us can enjoy a relaxed session on uncrowded lineups.
And sure enough, Bolinas was not very crowded, and the people that were in the water were very mellow. As it should be. I was supposed to meet a friend out there, but I didn’t get his txt message until later. According to the swell models, Bolinas was dead, so went to points south. Good thing I didn’t know it was supposed to be dead!
So… how was it?
It was GREAT!
I got in the water around low tide (~10am), which by my estimation was about +1 this morning. The patch wasn’t working, but the channel was firing outside with nice 4′ sets. In fact, it was firing hard enough that my 10/4 Roger Hinds was just too much board! I should have brought my SF 9/0. I could have surfed the 7/3 really.
It’s always like that. When I don’t bring a board, it’s going off. When I only bring a long board, there’s a short board wave breaking. I do this about once a year: leave home without a board, or with wrong boards.
Do you ever do that? Take off someplace else because you “don’t feel like surfing” when you’re at home. Then you’re like “I wonder what it looks like out there.” And it’s just going off! And you would sell one of the boys to get in the water.
As I said, the 10/4 was a little too much board. It doesn’t have a lot of rocker, and these waves were rolling in slow, then standing up fast. I pearled a couple of times before I got it dialed in. Oh yeah… I got caught inside three times! Sucked… but not bad for a dead south swell.
