I have this Taylor 8/4 gun I bought for $200 at Aqua Surf shop back in February or March 2009. It’s in immaculate condition: white, 2-3 pressure dings on the deck, no cracks anywhere. Very nice tapered pintail. I have a picture somewhere, I’ll post it later.
In any case, I had not been in the water since the big south swell late July at Bolinas. Sad, right? Especially since I’m supposed to be working for myself and have all this time to surf. Uh huh. More on that later.
So I roared out to the Ocean Beach, Sloat as usual, and jumped into a messy froth of whitewater. The outer bar was cooking at maybe 7-10, but the period was short. I didn’t look it up at the time, but it was acting like a 13 second swell. Typically four to five lines of whitewater, not much in the way of lulls.
Talk about weak…
Ok, the 8/4 is harder to duck dive, but still, I do like to get outside in the inside break, and that just didn’t happen.
So I rode 3 on the inside. Wiped on the first, stuck the popup very nicely on the second, spilled on the last trying to turn out from the wash.
All in all, a good day. Better than staying home!
Tags: Taylor gun